Børsen 2007

Restaurant Schonnemann


 


BØRSEN wrote 4th April 2007:


This is a translation from Danish to English using Google translate!

WELCOME BACK Schønnemann!


It was the intoxication, which meant I felt the urge to hug the host. Not that I was drunk as such. Actually had only benefited a single, small beer, to declare the visit took place at lunch. Incidentally, it was an unusually good beer, brewed specifically for the restaurant Schønnemann of Carlsberg's brewery Jacobsen. A beautiful, dark amber drink with a thick, creamy white foam about 10 inches high. In addition, serves on a number of interesting beers from small and large breweries at home and abroad. Yes, øludvalget is simply exemplary form, and it surpasses most lunch restaurants in the genre. For no matter how good such a Danish sandwich restaurant can be, so there is usually only a few, even boring beers to choose from.


Well, back to intoxication. The highly attentive reader will perhaps remember a headline on this website back in 2003; 'bad at Schønemann'. A sad writing was what traders on how to do this several hundred years old, reputable establishment had gone to the dogs. And although the quality was unreasonably low, so guests were crammed and apparently believed that all was well. It was not, I remembered that every time I passed the following year Schøn's windows in the old-fashioned way was covered with curtains.


Gone were the curtains


Recently I noticed in passing that the curtains were gone. And it was not the only change was in fact also the former owner gone, and instead appeared as resurrected. I went in and ordered the aforementioned beer and some sandwiches. The waiter was kindness itself at this old-fashioned, polite manner that is friendly but not overly obsequious. There were white cloth napkins and tablecloths of the same stuff on the tables, however, covered with a white paper napkin. The light streamed in through the windows and showed that the place was nice clean and neat, without the tradition full of sand on the floor was missing.


11 minutes after the order arrived a velfriteret, quite crisp fish fillet with a spoonful of homemade mayonnaise, a bunch of fresh dill and a small pile of prawns. Not in itself a genuine culinary revelation, but within the framework of classical sandwich it was so nice, neat, fresh and proper that we could not help but to rejoice. How it continued the following paragraphs, all of which bore evidence of being cooked with skill, prudence, and not least pride. Same attitude seemed to reign among the servants, and the unifying effect was that I felt quite drunk with joy over there is yet arrived a lunchtime oasis for the city. An oasis that is as comfortable close to the editors that I made within the given framework frokostpauses Schønnemann could visit again and again the following day. So the notification is therefore based on an extremely thorough testing.


At the next visit I found that the boiled pickled herring was a hit. Big, bold, comfortable and tender with a mild vinegar flavor. You could choose between good fat or butter mixed with sea salt to the good, thick cut bread. In herring category, there is indeed a great pub classics, namely the can with Swedish brottsjö-herring, a curiosity that should not be confused with a trite canned herring, but in no way surpasses the aforementioned pickled conspecifics.


Picked by birds


Chicken salad was a solid piece of craftsmanship, picked by the birds cooked and tossed with a not-too-fat dressing, served with toasted bread and lean, crunchy crispy bacon. Rib roast was crackling, but the flavor was no reason to boast about. Red cabbage, however, was top notch.


Roast beef was fresh, nice and smooth red, broad flat out over the good bread with a small platform in the center and a load of home fried onions and remoulade. Equally pleasing was the ox breast, which was garnished with freshly grated and spicy pickles. Smørrebrødsseddelen contains most classics, and a number of specialties such as Sun over Hauser Plads, Virgo Midnight snack and Kurt's Special from Fiskehallen in Gilleleje. The latter was slices of smoked salmon, covered with a salmon mousse and a few boiled småkrebs? Overall, a tasty combination.


"Grey beef tartar"


A point at which intoxication steamed a little, was Parisian.

Not that there was some objection to its appearance or garnish, which was wonderfully fresh and by the book, consisting of such sized capers, grated horseradish and whole egg yolk. It was nicely fried to a brown surface, but some places it was too hot. What you also could see inside the burger, which probably was gray, though without being dried.

After meeting with yet another beef tartar at a later visit, I may note that this is simply style, and it is a style that will make many lunch guests happy. Nevertheless, I classify as belonging to the Parisian middle class, not the sweet class, which almost is a toasted tartarmad, which characterizes the true champions udi discipline.

But I ate really up and rinsed off with a bottle of beer from the brewery Gourmet represented alongside the Brooklyn Brewery, Leffe and Nørrebro Brewery. A range that probably exceeds what Schønnemann had to offer, then in 1877 where he founded the inn to serve particular the men who had been dry throat of work over at Kultorvet.


So is the good publican long since under earth, so when the headline reads 'welcome back', it should not be taken literally. But it is as if his spirit? or at least some good spirit? once again hovering over the site, which had a new host two months ago.


He'd probably have been a bit surprised if the intoxication which was certainly not an alcoholic, but pondered in the joy of all things good had led to an appreciative hug. Not least because if I also had called him Schønnemann, for he called Puggaard. This makes the sandwich lady who really cook too. They are indeed married, and accustomed to working together, including at Brasserie in Gilleleje which the couple owned until last year. This velsammentømrede team and their talented people to leave this warm and friendly welcome in the Copenhagen sandwiches elite.


OLE Troelsø


RATING / NATURE:

Food / Classic sandwiches marked by diligence / 7

Drinks / Many good beer / 7

Operation / Friendly and fast / 10

Comfort / Proper traditional sandwiches environmental / 4


Restaurant Schønnemann

Hauser Plads 16

1127 Copenhagen K

Tel: 33 12 07 85

Overall rating: 7


The grading scale

12 The excellent performance

10 The excellent performance

7 The good performance

4 The mediocre performance

2 The adequate performance

0 The inadequate performance

-3 The completely unacceptable performance