Berlingske / AOK 2008

Restaurant Schonnemann

                                             

Berlingske Tidende / AOK Friday, 5th December 2008.
This is a translation from Danish to English using Google translate!


EVERYTHING IS AGAIN FOR THE BEAUTIFUL IN SCHONNEMANN


Messrs. Puggaard deserves all praise for the loving hands that have led Schønnemann back to former glory.
 

Sandwiches once smelled an unpleasant stomach being acidic and cigar men in darkened rooms gentleman, but this is certainly no more. Entire scale around, from veteran Ida Davidsen for the young ambitious back-to-basics-advocate Adam Aamann, reported that on full houses, and today choose equally young sandwiches for lunch. The popularity is so great that in most places would do well to book a table. Thus also one of the oldest butter (rebrøds) holes - Schønnemann - who has served herring and schnapps to hungry Amager and Brønshøj peasants since the 1877th Last, I review purposes was over basement room at Hauser Square was just two years ago and it's not exactly a meal, I remember with pleasure. Small two stars, it was back then, and curious parent isms as pesto cream to salmon and truffle oil to the smoked eel fighting with factory tartar sauce, sliced buy bread and butter and fat in plastic pieces to pull the character even further. An annoying downfall of one of sandwich classics, and I was obviously not alone seems. For Schønnemann has since taken over by John and Soren Puggaard who have a history of brasserie in Gilleleje and they have so much promise Schønnemann back in sandwiches league. The operation alone is second to none in the polite, Altmodisch shape that stands well to the room with wood paneling and benches and chairs upholstered in Olmerdug.
 


Despite a restaurant that was filled to bursting point, had our waiter (who was identical with Soren Puggaard himself) not only completely in control of everything that came without delay, he also had a surplus to a single humorous remark or two. The level of ambition in Schønnemann new owners also madmæssigt is something beyond the ordinary, is evident from smørrebrød, besides the classics (including the season expanded with Christmas dishes) also counts twelve specialties. All of whom, like the rest of the map has been prepared from organic meat, poultry and dairy products - naturally?-Served on homemade bread with butter and homemade krydderfedt to. Additionally, in collaboration with house brewery Jacobsen made his own ale, a dark tan and high foaming action. The we ordered (62 kroner for 50 cl) and with her at the same time rich and letbitre flavor gave the perfect counterpart to our sandwich obesity.


My medspiser chose old mature herring with curry salad. Herring pieces were perfect, great, cool and comfortable until tender, with the mild taste of old-fashioned lengthy barrel maturation. In a small bowl was served a successful curry salad with great homemade mayonnaise, so you could mix as needed. I got a 'Soren's Special', fried and smoked eel served with chives and warm scrambled eggs on toasted rye bread. The big and bold ålestykker were served warm, with a slightly crumpled roasted åleskind top. How have I never had eel before, and serving recalled the grilled Japanese Unagi-eel, with the exception of smoke flavor, particularly in the skin was a little noisy. But otherwise a fresh interpretation of an old classic. On the whole, are Messrs. Puggaard not afraid to personalize sandwiches classics. Among other specialties, which I unfortunately was not able to test at this visit, but definitely be back to sample more closely at, among other surrib with spareribs cooked in Carls Porter, all four kinds of tartare and 'maiden midnight snack' ( chicken salad, smoked potatoes, bacon and carrot fries). Instead we went out in two classics: plaice fillet and blasted gåsebryst. Plaice came from Gilleleje claimed Soren Puggaard. Whether this was why it was fried and not pan-fried, which I prefer, I could not say, but the taste certainly nothing wrong with. Frying oil was nyskiftet and therefore without taint, and breadcrumbs far from the thick "armor" could be fear. Fillet came with two green asparagus and a good homemade remoulade. My cold and blew gåsebryst was cut into thin slices, which were topped with homemade creamy horseradish, watercress and tyttebærsyltetøj? cream and jam in such large quantities that balance in between was about to tilt in the direction of whipped cream cake with the same name. Here would be a bit more horseradish have been desirable. At that time my female medspiser sated. Even nuppede I have a classic: stilton cheese. A nice ripe blue cheese on toasted rye bread with acacia honey and rosehip jam, was at the table doused with port wine - here I had to true the old poet's words from the New Year song, "then descended the power of God for our weakness? Schønnemann are handmade quality throughout, and the great attention to detail, not least the large selection of beer (absurdly a rarity on the Danish sandwiches restaurants), and the desire to provide bread and butter of a personal interpretation without being gimmicky, gives us more than doubles the number of stars from our last Online.


by Svend Rasmusssen


 

That we ate:

Old fashioned ripened herring with curry salad £ 49

Soren's Special (grilled smoked eel with scrambled eggs) 118 kr

Plaice fillets with tartar sauce £ 69

Corned gåsebryst 118 kr

Stilton cheese 88 kr


Friday 05th December 2008 Berlingske Tidende AOK 2009